Overclocking my i5-760 on a cheap MoBo

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terorvlad
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Hello all,I got a i5-760 on a Msi H55M-p31 inside a Antec Sonata 3 using the PSU it came with (500W)and a 5870. I am planning to upgrade this spring or in the early summer to a 2600k since 3d Rendering is becoming more and more important to me and I was thinking. I will want to overclock the i7 a little, maybe 3.7-3.9 and I was thinking at buying in this moment a http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/cpu-cooler/katana-3-type-i.html that I will use with my i5 until I get the i7. My questions are :

1)Will my current motherboard support a overclock to 3.7-3.9 (if the temperature of cpu permits that) ? I heard that cheap motherboards fry fast and I don't want to do that. Once I opened the auto-overclock utility it has and it clocked my cpu to 3.9 Ghz. this seems like a good sign to me.
2)Is the cooler a decent pick ? I really can't afford something more expensive than it ATM and for a decent overclock ppl said it's quite good.
3)Can anyone reccomend me a motherboard for a 2600k /ivy brige(highly unlikely to get one)?
4)If the motherboard fries, how many chances are that the cpu/ram/gpu will also get damaged ?
5)Is my PSU and Case good enaugh? It did very nice with my 5870 clocked at 900 (850 default) with 1300 (1200 default) last week and the temperature was not exceeding 72*C with the fan set to 80% but I also used some artic siver 5 to get better heat transmision.
6)what would you choose between 6GB of 1600mhz ram and 8GB of 1333 Ram ? I currently have :
2 GB 1333 + 2 GB 1600 and I plan to get 4 GB 1600. Since the higher clocked downclocks to the slowest, I only got 1333 mhz. Should I keep the slow 2 gb inside the system or not ? The difference in bandwidth is about 1-2 GB/s less

Thank you for your paitance and excuse my drunk english at 3 AM

CPU: I5-760 @3.4 Ghz | MoBo: Msi H55M-p31
GPU: 5870 Sapphire | Ram: 8 Gb @1333Mhz
Case&PSU: Antec Sonata 3-500W | OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64
Cooler: Deepcool Icefrige mini FS| Monitor: 23.7' LG Flatron W2443T 1080p LCD

eire1274
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Lots of questions... okay, here I go:

1) This is a big question both on the motherboard and CPU. Sometimes you get overclocking friendly parts, and sometimes you get parts that work at spec and nothing higher. There is a certain level of chance, unless you are getting a specific part that is made with overclocking in mind. Cheaper motherboards use cheaper voltage control units, as well, so it's twitchiness really calculates into what the CPU will tolerate, but sometimes even these cheapies can work out well. MSI has done really well for me in the past, but there is no guarantee.

2) The Scythe cooler is quite good. Just make sure you have lots of cool air in the case.

3) Look at the Asus Sabertooth and Crosshair series. Hardcore, strong, and stable, but they'll cost you a bit. I actually have an AM3+ Sabertooth on for my upcoming FX video rendering system.

4) The more expensive the board, the more likely the VCU will take the damage and protect the board. But there is always the chance that a major pop CAN take everything out with it. It just depends on where the failure happens on the circuit path.

5) Antec rebrands their cases now, but you tend to get good quality from them, with lots of fan ports. Their power supplies are rebranded Seasonics, and I have little trust for them (have had a higher rate of failure on my bench) and tend to look at OCZ or Corsair as superior units, but you are still buying in the higher level of what is available in PSUs.

6) For 4 cores, the 8Gb 1333Mhz RAM would be my choice. Faster RAM, but not enough of it, will not get you any gain in speed. BE CAREFUL! Running multi-channel memory in unlike DIMMs can result in really weird system crashes and operation. Memory is cheap, spend the money and get a couple 4Gb 1333Mhz. I just bought a matched pair for $30 from Newegg.

Nick McDermott

terorvlad
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Posts: 44

Thank you very much for the reply. I will be buying cheaper 4GB 1333mhz ram and will spend the money I saved on a Titan Fenir. 1 small problem, The case only has 1 120mm fan on the back blowing the hot air out. Now, because of my 5870 taking too much space in my case, I can't install another fan in front. Do you think the Cpu fan will still do good if I leave the case opened and I make sure it is in a open area to get cool air? I could mod my case and squize a fan in the front, but that would mean butchering the hdd slots.
Thanks again.

eire1274
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Your video card likely is venting air out, as well. Ideally, if you could pop a fan in on the side panel, this would be ideal. 10 minutes with a Dremel cutter, you can pop in a nice large, slow fan (240mm) with an attractive grill (that can often hide your surgery on the case!) and that would provide more than enough airflow to keep things nice and chilly.

Nick McDermott

terorvlad
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I want to the shop and they did not have the fenir on stock anymore and neither the katana. I could've buy a fan slightly cheaper than katana, but I decided not to spend my money on something not that usefull, instead I got a icefrige mini fs. I really can't complain when I compare it with the stock cooler which had artic silver 5. This one with stock thermal paste does a great job keeping my cpu at 29*C with stock Ghz. I also got 4 gb of 1600 memory because It was just 2 $ more expensive than the 1333 and I may switch to it in the future. Now, I got some more questions and problems.

1: I overclocked my cpu to 3.45Ghz until I get some more artic silver 5 and a additional fan for both the case and the heatsink. It idles at 32-33 and after 5 tests with in-place large ftts on prime 95 it reaches 75 *C and tends to rise until 76. I have set Core Temp to shutdown my pc if 73*C are reached on any core. Do you think the temps are a bit high ? Someone told me to go for 75*C because in apps will go max 70 and it reached max 71 in GTA IV after 1 hour maxed out.

2: Can you link me to a overclocking tutorial explaining how to adjust voltage for mobos simmilar to mine ? I can't get how to change the voltage the way I want it.
On my MoBo I got:
CPU voltage- on auto (0) and CPU VTT voltage- also on auto (around 1.100). I don't get it why the actual core voltage is 1.4. shouldn't the voltage value be related to those 2? If I set the VTT on 1.097 I get a core voltage of 1.32. If I set the VTT on 1.097 and CPU voltage to + 0,001 then I get a voltage of 1.1XX. It really doesn't make sense to me and I can't seem to find any tutorials for my H55M-P31 or any other H MSI mothermoard.

3: The cooler came with the fan attached to the heatsink by 4 metal pices. It didn't came with additional pices and I wonder if it would be ok to secure the fan with only 2 diagonaly. My logic says it should be good enaugh, but I have seen that the cooler shakes a tiny bit. I am worried that 2 fans would be too much for it and it would start shaking too bad and probably break the mobo or my GPU right under the cooler. The motherboard is making a lot of "squeaking" sounds and I just don't feel to confident about that.

eire1274
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1) 75°C is a little higher than I usually will let it go. I prefer to stay in the middle 60's to provide "wiggle room," so if you get dust contamination and this reduces your cooling, you don't kill anything. It gives you a reaction time.

2) First off, make sure you are running the last BIOS for that board, v. 1.A, which is a free download from the MSI website. There are often early BIOS that show the option but it wasn't necessarily connected. According to the manual, AUTO will flex voltage as the BIOS sees fit. Altering the "CPU Voltage" to set values should lock them in, but remember that your board isn't a pro at this and you should confirm actual voltages (with a multimeter) if you start pushing your CPU. Remember to stay within 10% for safety (1.4V + 10% is 1.54V) unless you are willing to risk your CPU. A good article to read on Intel Core i3/5/7 overclocking: http://www.overclockers.com/3-step-guide-overclock-core-i3-i5-i7/

3) I can't find specs on your cooler, but ideally one fan is ample. Push/pull configs often have little to no effect. However, yes, look at using all 4 clips FOR SAFETY REASONS, and if it is so heavy it is stressing the motherboard, it is recommended to brace it against the case, so the case takes the strain, not your delicate circuit boards!

Nick McDermott

terorvlad
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Ok, will reduce the OC to about 3.4. oh, and about the voltage... I am looking into this to lower it. I have no intention to rise it as the stock voltages get me to 3.7 ghz. And the fan, it's around 150 Grams or 0.330693393 Punds according to google, I will look into what is causing the squeaks because I just can't cope knowing something bad can happen.

Thank you for all your help. I can't express how usefull you've been for me :) Wish more people were like you.

eire1274
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150g is heavy, but I've run bigger 300-400g copper coolers in the past without bracing. But, in truth, my ThermalTake Tower112 (big chunk of copper, ran SO COOL with a couple Vantec Tornado fans) did end up breaking a motherboard. Most boards can safely handle 300g or less with out any problems, so find out where the squeaking is. Also, make sure EVERY MOTHERBOARD STANDOFF is installed and tight, to prevent flexing of the board.

terorvlad wrote: Thank you for all your help. I can't express how usefull you've been for me :) Wish more people were like you.

Hey, no worries. As I always say, I am a geek, and my geekiness needs to go somewhere. Glad this forum needs me! LOL!

Nick McDermott