I built my 1st pc here 4 years ago with the help of this forum. My computer has finally died and and its just not booting to windows for some reason.
I think its time to get a new one so i can play all the games like BF3, MW3, GTA5 etc. Ive been looking at some pc parts and wow, theres so much options now and all sorts of new names i never seen before.
My new pc build is not going to be one that costs me £3000+ i hope. I would just like to know how much i could get a good gaming pc for these days? £1000/$1500 would be a nice price point if it can be done?
All i do is game, so it would be built for that only. I started this thread and i will update it as i pick some parts, but im hoping to get some tips and feed back of you guys as im not up to date on whats good these days.
My Current Build is:
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 "Energy Efficient SLACR 95W Edition" 2.40GHz (1066FSB)
Memory: Corsair Dominator 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2 XMS2 PC2-8500C5 TwinX Dual Channel (TWIN2X2048-8500C5D)
Motherboard: EVGA nForce 680i SLi (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard (122-CK-NF68-A1)
PCU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad-SLi PCI-E 750W Power Supply
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS9700-LED CPU Cooler (Socket 754/939/940/AM2/LGA775)
HDD1: Western Digital Raptor X 150GB 10000RPM SATA 16MB Cache - OEM (WD1500AHFD)
HDD2: Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB SATA-II 16MB Cache - OEM (WD2500AAKS)
Graphics: BFG GeForce 8800 GT OC 512MB GDDR3 HDTV/Dual DVI (PCI-Express) - Retail
Keyboard: Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard (920-000375)
Mouse: Razer Copperhead Tempest Blue 2000dpi High Precision Gaming Mouse - Retail
Scythe S-FLEX 1200RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan - 3/4 pin
CD Drive1: Plextor PX800A 18x DVD±RW IDE Dual Layer ReWriter (Black) - OEM
CD Drive2: Sony NEC Optiarc DDU1615 IDE DVD-ROM (Black) - OEM
My New Build is:
cpu: i7 2500k\3570k
mobo: asus z77 pro
ram: 8 gb ram
CPU: I7 3770K or I5 3570K (depend if you want to do video rendering/multithread apps or not)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77 (depending on the option you want, the declination model will differ)
Ram: Any brand 8GB/1600mhz or up will be ok (ram is really cheap these day so i suggest 16/32gb for futureproofing)
Video card: GTX670 or HD7970
SSD: Suggest Crucial M4/OCZ Vertex 4/any Intel one (capacity depends on your needs)
HDD: Any 1TB+ will do the job
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80 or H100 Noctua NH-U12P or NH-D14 (depending on the case you'll get)
Optical drive: Any DVD/Blu-ray drive you want...
Case: Your choice but i suggest to spend 150+ to have an excellent case that will pass trough the years...
For Mice/Keyboard/monitor/speakers/headset: Up to you !!
Note: if only for gaming take the I5-3570K and overclock it !! you'll don't see the difference with an I7 as the games for now will not benefit from HyperThreading
My friend not long made a pc and got these parts for £760, would you guys change anything here as i have £1000 to spend.
Case: Cooler Master CM Storm Stryker Case
PSU: Corsair AX 850
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK
CPU Processor: Intel Core i5-3570K
CPU Cooler Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Graphics: Asus GeForce GTX660 TI-DC2OG-2GD5 Nvidia Graphics Card (2GB, GDDR5, HDMI, DVI-I, DVI-D, Display Port, OpenGL 4.2, DirectX 11, PCI-Express 3.0)
Memory: Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Red Vengeance Memory
Harddrive: OCZ Vertex 4 128gb
Go with that build, but get a GTX 660ti. It's faster than a 570 and not much more money.
Prophet4NO1 wrote:Go with that build, but get a GTX 660ti. It's faster than a 570 and not much more money.
Is this a good option?
Asus GeForce GTX660 TI-DC2-2GD5 Nvidia Graphics Card (2GB, GDDR5, HDMI, DVI-I, DVI-D, Display Port, OpenGL 4.2, DirectX 11, Nvidia 3D Vision Surround Ready, PCI-Express 3.0)?
That should serve you well!
Processor wise I'd recommend a Core i5 3570 or the 3570K.
if i was to go for an i7 cpu as i might do some video editing, what would be the best to get that dont cost a bomb, i was going to get the Intel Core i5-3570K but its not good for video editing to?
It's good too but slower than the I7 so, if just casual rendering go with the I5 and saves you 100$ or invest more for an I7 and keep it longer...
Unless you explicitly want to avoid water cooling, I'd recommend going from the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo to, as suggested before, a Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler.
That's just what I would buy with your budget. It would give you good overhead on temperature anyway. But obviously it's a whole $80 more. No idea how much that is in pounds.
Ok guys, i think im sorted. Does this build look ok to you and can you just let me know if its all compatible before i start buying on the sites. Thanks.
If you think something should be replaced, please let me know :)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker White
PSU: Corsair 850W AX850
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V Socket 1155 VGA DVI Display Port HDMI 8 Chanel Audio ATX
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
GFX Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 TI-DC2
Memory: Corsair 16GB DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Blue Performance (4 x 4GB)
SSD: Intel 240GB 520 Series SSD
P.S, Saving to add a WD 2TB Black Hard Drive for storage.
Looks perfect :).
Everything also looks like it is compatible. With a PSU of that wattage, I'd say eventually upgrading to SLI would easily be possible if you ever decide to.
Other than that though, you are good.
The only thing i would change is the ram for 2 stick instead of 4 to leave room for future expansion and relieve stress from the mobo as 4 sticks is rought to run at fast speed (however i don't think 1600 is too fast) It will simply differ if you want to overclock the ram or not, if not the 2 stick will just leave 2 more dimm for futureproofing your machine...
For the rest, simply perfect component choice as Vitalus said, you will easily upgrade to SLI if you want, you can overclock it in future (or right now) to gain even more performance out of it and all that components you choose will last really long as they're good quality ones ;)
I could try and find different ram for 8GB sticks as i really wanted blue sticks as im going to try match it all up.
Just a few questions...
Does my new build support 64bit windows, and should i get windows 7 64bit?
Does my motherboard support higher memory speeds than 1600Mhz? I did look but the higher speeds it showed said (O.C) does that mean overclocked only?
Good thermal paste? I have thermal paste but its like 5 years old :)
Plus, i might have to look for low profile ram as the ones i got are very high and might hit the cpu cooler fan.
Yeah, i suggest new Thermal paste as some tends to change form within some months (like the noctua that goes to liquid really fast)
For ram kingston have some blue heatspreaders like that and it's low profile too: http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=70944&vpn=KHX1600C10D3B1K2%2F16G&manufacture=Others&promoid=1258
Yeah, it support 64 bit and you NEED 64 bit as 32 bit supports only 3.25gb of ram so your 16gb will just be detected as 3.25GB in a 32 bit os...
Oh and your motherboard can go to higher speed ram but that will not give a great extra boost, just a few benchmark points more (not noticeable in real life) it's not necessary if you're not upping the Base clock (overclocking) as the ram speed will follow and even if you overclock you're not forced to change the base clock with a "K" cpu so 1600mhz is just perfect as the "Core" architecture support 1600mhz max by default...
(the O.C. is because there's no ram speed above 1600mhz that are "JEDEC" standard so they not program in bios itself, it need to manually be set with all the proper timing, etc...)
However it's tricky cause it's not sure that will work as the 2133mhz speed is not a JEDEC standard (you'll need to tweak all settings to their specified value and there's a lot of setting and just one wrong can cause random BSOD so for the maybe 5% gain for all the pain in the a** that gives) plus it cost a lot more... simply not worth it, 1600mhz is standard. no tweak needed and run as fast and stable...
PS: i really suggest "Kingston" branded ram as they're lifetime warranty and they have the lower faillure rate and return than other company (0.30% as i know) Also they're really strong (my 1066 stick can goes up to 1256 and they're 2.2V and some overclocker gives 2.8/2.9V to reach 1400-1500 with ddr2 (mine running @ 2.5V for 4 years now and still strong) Also i heard that they replace without questions about improper use, etc... (never had a stick failed so i can't affirm that...)
Thanks for all the info spawnkiller, great help.
EDIT: I changed my mind on the cpu cooler and got a phantek ph-tc14pe instead, but when i opened the box and took it out. Unter the top fin where it says phantek was a little bit of rust around the holes where the pipes come out of.
Is this bad?
mmm it's not supposed to have rust as they "anodized painted" and nickel Platted, so personnally i would return it as my Noctua don't have rust even 4 years after, so maybe the phantek it's defect on arrival or they're just cheap platted (not thick enough) and the rust comes out after a couple of months...
However, it would reduce the efficiency but i don't think it's by a lot if it's just here, if the pipe corrodes, then it would be really bad and they'll not transfer the heat to the fins...
Make sure it's really rust and not copper on the base junction (maybe they don't platted the contact with the copper base (that help the heat transfer) so that's why you see a bronze, orange color)
Ive took some pictures for you, would you send this back? Its under the top fin, but all the rest looks ok.
i would definately return it back to the retailler or the manufacturer asking for a refund and buy something else as, in searching it seems that they all have this similar problem when it supposed to be aluminium and aluminium don't rust right ??
Check this one, the top fins are broken + they have rust to...
I don't know how you paid but the NH-D14 is 80$ on amazon and you'll never had trouble with Noctua products for sure, i use my NH-U12P se2 for maybe 5 years now and i have no problem of mounting brackets or rust, still running strong and i clean it (remove it, wash it in water then apply new thermal paste) at 3 to 6 months intervall for all the time i've been using it and this machine run 24/7 maybe 350 days/years from Q1 2008...
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