Hi all, I've been on this forum all day but thought I'd finally post a topic asking for a little help.
I want to build a good computer for no more then £800, which is just over $1200.
Up to now I've got:
Case: Cooler Master HAF 922 - £76
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK - £109
CPU Processor: Intel Core i5-3570K - £84
Graphics: Nvidia GeForce GTX 570 - £188
Memory: Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Red Vengeance Memory - £40
Harddrive: OCZ Vertex 4 128gb - £100
Current price: £597
I'm stuck on to what PSU I need, I'm not sure how powerful it has to be, any suggestions?
Any suggestions on any other specs of the computer I should change are welcome too!
Thanks guys. :)
something like a Corsair AX 850
Should be, anything 650W-700W would be more than sufficient. Going higher offers more room for expansion, but remember that excessive unused wattage can shorten the lifespan of the PSU. 850W would be higher than I would go.
Anything from a great manufacturer from 650 watts or more is ok... if you plan SLI/Crossfire then maybe a 800-1000w... just check to be sure that you buy a good PSU (check reviews about it, test, consumers complaints, etc...)
PS: a 650 watt psu will run SLI/Crossfire but you really want to have a power draw that is about 50-60% of your total PSU wattage cause it's where the efficacity will be the best and where the PSU will last the longer... also i suggest to pick a 80 plus bronze minimum ;)
Thanks for the tips guys, it's only £20 extra for a AX 850 rather than an AX 750. An I do plan on upgrading in the future to a better graphics card, but the GTX 680 is like £450 at the moment and don't want to pay that much for one part.
spawnkiller wrote:PS: a 650 watt psu will run SLI/Crossfire but you really want to have a power draw that is about 50-60% of your total PSU wattage cause it's where the efficacity will be the best and where the PSU will last the longer... also i suggest to pick a 80 plus bronze minimum ;)
This is in debate. Power supplies typically hit efficiencies around 75% load overall, however 80-plus (especially Silver, Gold, or Platinum) press that number down, as do power supplies with active PFC. 75-80% has been a tech standard for a VERY LONG TIME, but now it is more and more important to look at your power supply manufacturer and find their take on the efficiencies.
Yeah, i was a ANTEC fan and all their power we're continous in that time and this is the 50-60% efficacity for them but i was thinking that was a "standard" in the industry cause my Cooler Master hit it's max efficacity @ 50% to 60% load @40celsius too (80 plus gold so maybe it's that...)
You''ve also got to remember that I've got 20 years under my belt, too.
yeah i see that you've been around for a long time now !!
Why not a new AMD graphics card instead?
You need frames.. 60+ :) "depends on your monitor"
I'm curious Nick. What are you basing this on?
You mention later on that most PSUs hit their peak efficiency at around 50% capacity and the curve flattens with higher standards (gold, platinum, etc). I agree there completely.
Now the older AC/DC power rail conversions (each rail gets power from separate transformer coils) will be more sensitive to where you are consuming your power - particularly on the high end. They get sloppier with regulation at the power curve ends. That is harder on the components being driven by the PSU often seen as intermittent program crashes, blue screens and in extreme cases - data corruption.
Modern high efficiency (gold & platinum) pretty much all use DC/DC conversion for the rails (One transformer coil for 12v & the other rails are all divided down from that). Regulation is much tighter across the entire power range so there is far less stress on your system at the power range ends.
In answer to the thread :
Looking at the parts going into the OP's system, It looks to be a pretty power-friendly build. The I5, GTX 570, memory and SSD I don't see drawing much more than 250w at full load. I concur that A 600-700W is plenty to drive that system. If he wants to later on add another GTX 570 or two, 8GB more memory, drop in an overclocked i7-3770k and a couple of 3.5" HDDx, then 850+ watts might make more sense.
As mentioned above, while high efficiency PSUs may be less problem-prone at the ends of their power ranges, it is always to size your PSU to as close to half your expected power usage as you can get because that is where you get the most bang out of every watt you pull from the wall.
- edit - hmm, for some reason the 'reply' didn't hang this under Nick's original post at #2... Dang forum!
Manic Mouse wrote: I'm curious Nick. What are you basing this on?
The general rule for AT/ATX PSU generation was 75-80% back in the day, as switching power supplies generated 100% of their power and recycled left-over charge (unused by the PC) back through the voltage control systems, which was one of the largest heat generators, and excessive wattage led to heat wear and early power supply death. I still use this rule today, largely in an effort to produce PCs with long lives, and it still proves to be true.
However, with better and better designs including active PFC, microcircuit controllers, and the 80plus standards, some PSUs are becoming better and better. If the manufacturer offers this information, the rule I stated above becomes unimportant as the PSU is already compensating for this, such as with spawnkiller and his info on his Antec PSU. However, there are still LOTS of PSUs being made with old standards (just about anything you see in an off-the-shelf system, too) that don't compensate, and this is why the PC makers don't give us monster PSUs.
Also, anyone who has or used to have the HAF 922, do i need to buy any extra fans and if so what sizes? :)
With the component you'd choose, i think i'll add another 200mm in the side (no need for the bottom 120mm), matter of style and to help the stock CPU heatsink that are ""shitty"" but in this enclosure, the airflow is good so the GTX570 should be ok... also i can suggest a CPU cooler to prevent the side fan utilisation and to help benifit of the "K" processor with a little overclock and remain quiet under load... For 35$ here you can get a cooler master Hyper 212 EVO that does pretty well for a budget one...
PS: I also prefer a "positive pressure" in my case cause the dust will not incrust in the corner like having just exhaust fan... i had do the test with my Antec 900 and in 2-3 months dust was formed in balls in the corner cause it was sucking air in all the little hole from the bottom... (it's on the floor) And now with a side fan (now 3*120mm intake and 1*120mm + 1*200mm exhaust and it's a annual cleaning now...)
Here is the link of the Hyper 212 EVO:
i suggest a corsair, Seasonic, or Antec psu
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